By now we are feeling fairly desperate, as we have not seen a laundry or dry cleaner since landing over a week ago. Pont Aven, the next destination, is a small town, and sure enough, no laundry. So I start washing out by hand. Fortunately the room has two old-style heaters that generate enough warmth to dry our “smalls” and keep us warm – day temperatures are fine, in the sixties, but the night drops to the mid-forties. This was another pleasant hotel, discovered by accident in a guide to hotels dispensed by the Brittany tourism folks – it’s not listed in the Michelin. We eat lunch here two days running – most enjoyable, to sit alongside the river and watch the ducks and gulls. The most expensive meal of the entire trip is here – at the Moulin de Rosemadec, where we dined 18 years ago! In those days the dollar was worth something. The lovely little chapel at Tremalo is still there, open – and unguarded. This is a very small detour, not listed in many guides, but well worth the trouble to walk or drive out from the center of Pont Aven. The carvings on the ceiling beams are extraordinary.